An unsuspecting passerby might not know that Tempest World Cuisine, in Nova Scotia’s Annapolis Valley, is a Maritime culinary destination waiting to be savoured like a fine wine. Inside the sleek red-walled interior, Chef Michael Howell helms the kitchen with creativity and a nod to his world adventures. Howell trained at the Hospitality Institute of Chicago and worked in the windy city’s finest before moving on to Toronto, New York and the Bahamas to name a few. At the latter location, the chef garnered “The Best Chef in the Bahamas” title by The Nassau Food and Wine Society. Long time slow food proponent, Howell’s love of supporting the local fishermen, farmers and wine producers means diners get the very best on their plates and in their glasses.
The Chef's Tasting Menu Begins
At a recent multi-course meal designed by Howell paired with a complete roster of Nova Scotian wines, every whim was exceeded. A cool glass of Benjamin Bridge’s Nova 7 arrived at the table with an amuse of a foie gras, Dragon’s Breath blue cheese and poached pear beignet. A match made in heaven. If any Nova 7s had been available for purchase, many a bottle would have been snapped up. This Gaspereau Valley blended white Muscat was aromatic, off dry and so very unique.
Earlier that day, Chef Howell led visitors to the Benjamin Bridge winery where international wine consultant Peter Gamble, the vineyard’s winemaker Jean-Benoit Deslauriers and French Champagne expert Raphael Brisbois were working on Nova Scotian sparkling wines. If Nova 7 is any indication of what the vineyard can produce, we’re all in for a treat!
Maritime Classics Revisited
No meal in the Maritimes would be complete without a scallop course - and Howell didn’t disappoint. His seared Mahone Bay scallop with organic beet and Rancher Acres goat cheese with beet beurre blanc was a flavour sensation of sweet and earthy from the beets, to clean and briny from the scallops. Paired with a L’Acadie Vineyards L’Acadie Star (07), the wine’s citrus/grapefruit notes played off perfectly against the dish.
Another dish that impressed was the Tempest Chowder. This version includes line caught Finnan Haddie and Stewiacke chorizo rendering the dish just a bit smokey and a whole lot sexy. The 2006 Jost Eagle Tree Muscat’s peachy rose aromas and crisp acidity helped bring out the soup’s nuances. One of the best pairings of the night.
Potato wrapped line-caught haddock was comforting and sophisticated all at once and the lobster risotto that followed with basil oil was beautifully bold. Served with a 2006 Blomidon Chardonnay redolent of apple and pear, it was a clean, well chosen pairing.
Local Heritage Pork and Port
The local Grassroots Farm’s heritage Tamworth Pork made an appearance as a triptych- the belly, loin and shoulder with their accompanying accoutrements. The 2007 Blomidon Baco Noir’s bright acidity and cherry aromas proved pork-worthy.
Much to every diner’s delight, you can wrap up a fabulous Tempest tasting menu with a local, Gaspereau Port made with Lucy Kohlman grapes, fortified with brandy and sweetened with a nuance of maple syrup. Paired with Howell’s Chocolate Buñuelos (Mexican style fritters in a luscious pool of creme Anglaise), you couldn’t ask for anything more. Except for another visit to this Wolfville, NS institution to see what else Howell’s fertile culinary imagination might have conjured since your last visit!
Mary Luz Mejia - Colombian-born and Canadian raised. After earning an honours History degree from Queen's University and a Journalism post-grad diploma ...
